Hear, Hear

A flea in the ear

For decades it had been my experience that General Practitioners at the Medical Clinic I attended were too busy to be bothered with whatever ailment I might have had. The Clinic in question became progressively uninviting over the years – to the point where in 2019 I tried the relatively new Medical Centre five minutes walk away at the end of my street.

The GP to whom I was assigned conducted a thorough set of tests, asked numerous questions, tapped data into her keyboard and generally behaved as if she took the job seriously. After a series of blood tests and prescription variations she informed me that I was good to go for twelve months and would need nothing more than to adhere to the prescribed dose of the pills that I’ve taken for more than fifty years.

Generally fit and healthy, I had been tempted to ask if there was anything that might be done about the annoying sensation of fluid in my right ear canal. The drops prescribed by various GPs over the years had invariably failed to alleviate the problem.

But in the great scheme of things it was a petty problem – a flea in the ear – not painful and so nothing to complain about.

 

No joy in this joist

A week or so ago, while breaking up hollowed-out deck joists I’d had to replace, the chemistry of white ant digestion came to mind. That train of thought terminated, as it were, in the ear that was bugging me and I phoned the Medical Centre.

Yes, my GP does syringe ears they said. The waiting room was crowded – but still in Covid seating mode. Every now and then a GP would emerge and whisper the name of the next patient on their list. Then a couple in the front row would inform the GP that there were plenty of patients outside.

When my turn came I commented on the fact that the Clinic was very busy. Was there something in the air? No, said the Doctor, all of its medical practitioners are at the Clinic on Thursdays. She checked the details, asked why I’d left it until now to have the canal syringed and then went about the business.

“Have you put anything in your ear?”, the Doctor asked.

“No,” I replied, “Not since someone told me, years ago, that one should never insert anything in there other than one’s elbow.”

She was not amused.

In the end my Doctor resorted to tweezers, removed the offending wax and prescribed drops. I asked if drops were really necessary, my right ear being immediately new again. Yes, because whilst there was no damage to the drum there was inflammation.

Once upon a time we had droppers to deliver eye, nose and throat solutions. Nowadays it’s guesswork – and I guessed I’d delivered the two drops prescribed. All good. The deck was as good as new and my right ear too.

First thing Friday, I put that day’s drops in. Is that one? Two? There’s no way to tell. My ear was blocked. I had to open up the venue for table tennis so couldn’t hang about. No-one had turned up at the prescribed starting time. On my bike. No, here they come. A good day’s play but the hearing loss was disorienting and continued across the weekend.

Come Monday, my GP was available and a lunchtime appointment fixed. Jack texted, asking whether I could meet him for table tennis at 6 pm. Maybe, I said, but I have a medical condition and will not know one way or the other until two-ish.

I was the sole patient in the waiting room. The Doctor shone her light down the canal. Hmm. There’s no blockage but a milky film over the drum. It may be a fungus. Surely not, I thought: it’s been my habit since childhood to keep that part of the anatomy diligently clean ever since my father reckoned mushrooms would grow in my ears if I didn’t. The GP prescribed non-fungal drops but we agreed that I’d wait and see before taking the medicine. Give it another week, she said. Don’t let any water get in there in the meantime. Lucky I didn’t get the drops, I guess?

I texted Jack. His real name’s Zbigniew so why he shortens it to ‘Jack’ is anyone’s guess. I told him I still wasn’t sure I’d be able to play table tennis but would let him know by 4:30 pm.

I rode to the shopping centre and stocked up. The blockage was driving me to distraction so I’d probably give table tennis a miss. I replied to various emails about the Federal Attorney General, reaffirming my view that it’s folly to follow Foucault. Suddenly, it was four-thirty. I didn’t want to go but neither do I want a flea running the show. Bugger it. Yes, I texted, see you at six.

I was already on the court and had the covers off the table when Jack came in. We’re both left-handed. After slamming backhands back and forth for five minutes we switched to forehand and I noticed he had a bandage over his right ear. “Yes,” said Jack, “I damaged it.”

Give me happy coincidence in preference to post-modernist philosophy any day.

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Home Alone

Helen Garner Diaries Volume IIAfter reading the two volumes of Helen Garner’s diaries, I was intrigued as to the identity of the dramatis personae – ‘V’ in particular. He’s so thinly disguised that I was driven to re-read the ‘novel’ he published in 1998. Now where did I shelve it? A thorough search yielded nothing so I concluded that I’d lent it – which, as you know, is to give it away.

Not thorough enough: I’d neglected the pile on the floor near my writing table going on a fortnight and there it was – at the bottom.

In light of what one gleans from Volume II of the diaries, I couldn’t just read V’s 1998 book but must study it – and took until yesterday to complete the task. It’s more a dissertation than a novel and includes a disparaging assessment of the underlying assumptions of depth-psychology (dreams and other phenomena being inherently meaningful, and so on) which Ms Garner had taken on board as plausible. Coincidence is one of the dividing lines in such analyses.

Last night I went to bed, dog-tired after table tennis. As a rule, I sleep soundly but have been restless this past week. A flash of light woke me from what had been a deep sleep. Was my neighbour attending to some important business in her spare room across the shared driveway? I checked my phone; it was 1:36 am. Best ignore it if I wasn’t to be tossing and turning for an hour or more. I couldn’t help but listen. There was someone in the driveway. Had my neighbour a reason to be out there? She sometimes does stuff in her backyard but this was close at hand.

I fumbled around for a pair of shorts – just in case. I crept to my writing table in the room at the front of the house. I hadn’t been dreamin’: there was a bright light from the driveway. I stared out and could determine that the light was heading toward the street from the locked roller door at the end of the driveway – heading toward me but at least in the preferred direction overall. Whoever it is has taken my ladder, I could see.

But I didn’t leave the ladder out. The wall around the front of my single-fronted cottage is low enough for a ladder to be seen over it but higher than permits of a head to poke above. The ladder appeared at the locked front gate. Glad I put on those shorts! This was getting serious. I couldn’t see the person who must be moving that ladder but knew it was time to act. I’d deadlocked the front door and security screen prior to going to table tennis and had neglected to unlock them prior to going to bed.

Helen Garner Diaries Volume IOnly since reading Helen Garner’s account of a conversation with a fireman had I adopted the practice of unlocking the deadlocks prior to going to bed: he had told her that many people who perish in house fires are found at the deadlocked entrance to their home. I didn’t have my keys so I couldn’t quickly open the front door and say Boo! to scare the intruder away so I pounded down the polished timber hallway and grabbed the phone. Maybe that would scare him (or her)?

Where’s the tennis racquet? No time to lose. The bright light was now shining down the hallway through the security mesh and frosted glass door as I returned to the front room, stood behind the glass of the (locked) French Doors that open onto the narrow courtyard between the wall and house and took a photo. No flash. Bugger. The ladder retreated. I saw it slide up on top of a van with a yellow roofrack, the same van as had been parked outside my house one afternoon a few days earlier. I managed to get the flash on and took another series of pics of that van.

The van moved slowly up the street and stopped. After a minute or so, it turned and went past my house into the night.

I was in a cold sweat from fear. I put on intruder fighting clothes, found the tennis racquet and the torch then went to get new batteries. Wrong size. I made a hot coffee and dipped a couple of biscuits (not at the same time, but one after the other).

I put on the back verandah lights just in case there was to be an attack from behind. I sat in a lounge chair that I only ever use to throw my table tennis bag onto. For some unknown reason the bag was in the kitchen so I didn’t damage the bat or balls.

I dozed off for a few minutes and went on like this for an hour or more. Then I took my phone, tennis racquet and torch to the toilet. While indisposed, the back verandah lights went out. Holy crap!

What chance both bulbs had gone at the same moment? Had the intruder returned and turned off my power at the smart meter box in the driveway? I tried the other lights. No power. Now I was beyond frightened so called triple-zero.

I’d never phoned triple-zero until calling on behalf of a companion who’d cracked her head on the ablutions block floor of the Lane Cove Caravan Park in March 2020 and then had some weird medical event in the September. Each time the triple-zero service had been first rate. It was again when the female operator took my details and put me through to the Police. The fellow stayed on the phone as he advised how near or far the attending officer with dog was.

I stood in the front room.

“Ah,” I said, “he’s coming up the road now. I can see his headlights reflected in the houses down the street.”

“That’s not him. He’s not in your street yet.”

“Well, there’s a very bright light so something’s going on down there.”

“Wait a minute, let me see. Yes, you’re correct”, said the fellow from the Police emergency service, “it’s an emergency SA Power unit. There’s been damage to electricity equipment, as it happens, and that’s the cause of the power outage.”

I was in the dark apart from the torch and the phone at my ear. I remembered how they do it on the TV cop shows and stuck the torch in my mouth while I unlocked the front door and security screen to go to the gate and talk to the policeman with the big dog.

He took the details and accompanied me down the driveway to see if there was anything to deal with.

All good.

I lay down on the bed but kept my clothes on. It was 3.33 am. I dozed off but was awakened by the sound of a vehicle moving slowly down the street – or up it. After getting up to check 3 or 4 times on perceived movements I was quite awake. Finally, in the early dawn I fell asleep and was in the deepest level – beyond the REM dreaming stage I expect, when the phone rang at 8:30 am.

‘Twas my sister. I let it go. But it might be important. So I forced myself out of bed, brushed my teeth and returned the call.

It turned out that when I’d put the phone in my tracksuit pants to talk to the cop at the front gate at 3:13 am I’d inadvertently pocket-dialled her husband and they’d listened to the conversation. She was phoning to see if I was okay after the break-in. I wished she’d sent a text but.

And it turns out I was right about the ladder: the intruder had not stolen mine but brought his (or her) own.

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Our ship’s come in

northeast winward

Sun over the yard arm

More a traveller than a tourist, once aboard the ‘One and All’ – a late twentieth-century version of a mid-nineteenth-century brigantine – at Port Adelaide for a tall ship day sail earlier this week I braced for a crass ritual where all those from Blinman would be admonished to make more noise than those from Balaklava, and so on.

Would I be able to get away with being myself? Mercifully I was. We all were. Better still, we were invited to try our hand at heaving, easing, unfurling, making fast, coiling, and so on. It was even more enjoyable than the day at Monarto Zoo – which is saying something, especially for a land lubber.

Lunch would be served but I’d be famished by then so had a substantial breakfast. The run down the River to Gulf St Vincent saw a number of us in the rigging after a well-ordered safety drill conducted by the team of volunteers.

brigantine

in the rigging

Back on deck other members of the team served morning tea. The woman who handed me mine apologised for the coffee being very hot. Thank you Jesus. Morning tea: bugger me! Hot coffee – out at sea.

The cheerful young woman deferred to by the deck crew sat beside Renee and me. I asked her what rank the shoulder epaulettes signified.

“First mate,” she said.

“And how far down the ladder from the Captain does that put you?”

“One step.”

We learned that she’d been to foreign shores, including the Antarctic and would have been at a Dutch Naval College had it not been for the pandemic. Another woman with the rank of second mate when on board as such was volunteering for the day along with numerous others. A trainee gave me a first hand account of her experience as a cadet and Renee learned from the ship’s medical officer that his day job’s in the emergency department of a public hospital. Teamwork was the soup du jour. One’s rank’s important, too, when it comes to having the search engine find a post so bear with me while I reiterate that this is all about the One and All – a brigantine.

Covid kept us on deck (except for those caught short and in need of the port or starboard head) so I never went below but whatever they did in the galley made for a delicious nutritious lunch that arrived as soon as the sun was over the yard arm.

Blue Water

Gulf St Vincent

The degree to which the co-operative atmosphere was generated by the healthy on board culture emanating from the captain and his Mate through the rest of the crew on the one hand and inherent in the nature of those who’re likely to purchase a ‘One and All’ ticket on the other I can’t determine but suffice to say it was a tonic. Would that such good government caught on.

There’s not much call for rugged individualism out on the water, I expect. The cadet to whom I spoke reckoned that community spirit did the trick. Too true. The last thing those crew members who went aloft and spread out along the square-rig yard arm to furl then stow the sail was for one among them to have ‘attitude’.

spread out along the square-rig yard arm

The Yard Arm

It’s a similar story at Monarto: this volunteer needs trust that other volunteer when feeding the lions and rhinoceroses. Trust and community spirit are just what the medical officer ordered. They’re part and parcel, too, presumably, of the effort to engage wayward youth and redirect this or that individual along a path to realising the satisfaction to be had from purposeful social co-operation?

Many would say that this volunteering model is all very well but limited to tall ships and zoos. Bring on the social wage, I say. A significant proportion of the ‘work’ done by paid employees is pointless and wasteful. We’d all be better off were the people doing those jobs provided a social wage and could go and do something useful each day. Volunteering would become the norm; the ‘One and All’ model would spread. Community spirit would do the trick. .

Back in Primary School, we were forbidden under pain of a rap over the knuckles to end a composition with “we came home tired but happy.” Expecting a cold southwesterly out on the Gulf, Renee and I had rugged up in wet weather gear but with the northeast winward we had a touch of the sun instead. Walking home along Semaphore Road, we were tired and thirsty. So we stopped for a beer – a Furphy – at a pub. Not bad. The barman had been processed through the same customer service course as the young man at my local bank: “How’s your day been? Will you be doing anything exciting this evening?” Margys and Karstens.

The point of view expressed here is taken up in different contexts in Chapters 8, 12 and 17  of the ebook.

Now, all of you from Blinman sing ‘One and All – a brigantine, One and All – a brigantine’ and then those from Balaclava can come in on the chorus: ‘One and All – a brigantine’.

 

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You are elles for a rejuvenated society

Yasmin Poole 

Sammy J

Bo Seo

Dr Kudzai Kanhutu

Dr Neela Janakiramanan

Alison Pennington

Sally Rugg

Dr Emma Shortis

Sarah and Dr Stephen Morse

Sally McManus & Michele O’Neil

rejuvenation

From little things big things grow

None of those listed above feature in the ebook but most of the authors mentioned in it are worth listening to as well.

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The powers-that-be

Bynoe River

the powers-that-be

Little Bynoe River Crossing

Who you know is the odds-on favourite when the powers-that-be appoint a leader.

Focused more on the glory that would accompany the first transcontinental crossing of the continent than on the nature of the undertaking, the powers-that-be appointed Robert O’Hara Burke as leader of the Victorian Exploring Expedition that set out from Melbourne on August 20th 1860.

Thirty-odd kilometres south of Karumba as the crow flies but more than a hundred by road, Henry’s campervan pulled into the site of Burke and Wills’ camp #119. In Starvation in a Land of Plenty Michael Cathcart provides the following details: on Saturday February 9th 1861, with the camels on their last legs, the Victorian Exploration Expedition’s four-man advance party established its northernmost camp, #119;

Burke and Wills' Northernmost campsite

Burke and Wills’ Savannah Way Memorial

they were on the banks of Little Bynoe River; the leader (Robert O’Hara Burke) decided to leave the two subordinates (John King and Charles Gray) to look after the camels while he and the second-in-command (William Wills) went to set foot on the southern coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria – the saltiness of the river water having alerted Wills to the fact that their camp was in the area that Augustus Gregory and other European explorers had traversed years before.

The celebrated Augustus Gregory had led a successful expedition from the Victoria River through the Gulf Country in 1856 and, earlier still on July 23rd 1845, Ludwig Leichhardt had crossed the Bynoe River not far downstream from Burke and Wills’ camp 119.

Camp #119

Little Bynoe River – upstream from where Ludwig Leichhardt crossed on July 23rd 1845

Patrick White’s megalomaniac explorer, Voss, was modelled on Leichhardt; the fictional character’s ill-fated outback expedition was born of Leichhardt’s 1848 debacle. Soon after arriving in Australia as a would-be outback explorer in 1842, Leichhardt had gone to the Hunter Valley (where White’s forebears were already well-established) to learn bush skills; the German displayed extraordinary incompetence, losing his way as well as his horse. His being financed to lead hazardous expeditions was yet another instance of the judgment of the powers-that be.

Patrick White had not been to remotest Australia before completing Voss in December 1956, David Marr tells us in his biography of the Nobel Laureate, but relied instead upon Sidney Nolan’s outback paintings depicting the lunatic nature of the Burke and Wills expedition. Nolan, in turn, suggested Alan Moorehead write Cooper’s Creek – the journalist’s 1963 book about the Victorian Exploring Expedition.

Augustus Gregory had been instrumental in Burke and Wills being in the Gulf Country: in Claiming a Continent, David Day writes that Victoria’s powers-that-be had taken particular note of that explorer’s extraordinary achievement in crossing Northern Australia because it dovetailed with their expectation of being able to exploit the business opportunities accompanying the arrival of steamboats (Francis Caddell’s prominent among them*) on remote reaches of the Murray-Darling River system. The Victorian Establishment anticipated being able to dominate outback trade in NSW and Queensland and to that end the Royal Society proposed an expedition to follow the Tropic of Capricorn across the continent. Augustus Gregory cautioned against an east-to-west trek and suggested instead that it be south-to-north. The exploration committee accepted that recommendation but, as signage at camp #119 tells us,

“Colonial rivalry was rife. Victoria wanted to beat South Australia in the quest to cross the continent. John MacDouall Stuart had tried twice and been turned back. His skills were unquestionable and he was about to make a further attempt. Could Victoria win?”

Focused more on the glory that would accompany the first transcontinental crossing of the continent than on the nature of the undertaking, the powers-that-be appointed Robert O’Hara Burke as leader of their expedition. What he lacked in bush skills was more than made up for by the fact that he was a Victorian – one who understood the importance of that colony being the first to mount a successful crossing. With McDougall Stuart already planning a third attempt at a continental crossing from Adelaide, the Victorian Exploring Expedition set out from Melbourne on August 20th 1860. Six months after their departure and seemingly unaware of possible lurking danger, Burke and Wills struggled through the mangroves and reached the Gulf twenty-five kilometres from Camp 119. It being the saltwater saurian breeding season, they were lucky not to have been attacked. They “reached the sea, but … could not obtain a view of the open ocean, although we made every endeavour to do so.”

That stretch of the Gulf coastline is no more accessible in the modern era. During its sixteen year operation until it closed in 2015, for example, Lawn Hill’s Century mine conveyed zinc and lead three hundred kilometres to the Normanton port by an underground slurry pipeline rather than transport the ore directly to the Gulf.

In the normal course of events, who you know is the odds-on favourite when the powers-that-be appoint a leader; any second-rate hanger-on will do. The Victorian Royal Society Exploration Committee’s selection of mounted police officer Robert Burke instead of an accomplished bushman like Alfred Howitt was tragicomic. The dark cloud’s silver lining, says Alan Moorehead in Cooper’s Creek, was that Burke and Wills’ disappearance galvanised the Establishment to put aside regional politics and call upon the nation as a whole in organising search parties. The powers-that-be finally did what should have been done in the first place with respect to exploration of the continental interior: taking up The Age newspaper suggestion that the rescue operation include a ship anchored in the Gulf of Carpentaria, Captain W H Norman in the sloop steamer Victoria was dispatched to the Albert River; Victoria’s Governor Barkly (a member of the Royal Society) wrote to Governor George Bowen asking for co-operation in the search for Burke and Wills and two Queensland rescue parties were provisioned: Frederick Walker with mounted Native Police black trackers overland from Rockhampton and William Landsborough aboard the brig Firefly to accompany Norman’s Victoria and head south from the Albert in search of Burke. A further two rescue missions – John McKinlay’s South Australian and Alfred Howitt‘s Victorian – pushed north. Adopting John McDouall Stuart’s unencumbered exploration technique, the four compact, highly mobile search parties converged on the area where Burke and Wills had gone missing. It was the Dry season; moored in the Albert River, the sloop Victoria served as base camp and the four leaders – all of them experienced bushmen – could rendezvous on Cooper’s Creek. Petty jealousies born of pride in one’s own colony had been put aside in favour of co-operation and co-ordination facilitated by modern technology – the telegraph.

The ‘blazing a trail’ cliché takes on a poignancy at Camp 119. Explorers marked trees by ‘blazing’ them and according to the signage at the Victorian Exploring Expedition Little Bynoe River campsite, John King and Charles Gray marked “no less than fifteen trees as proof they had reached north Australia.” David Hillan surveyed the site in 2004 and noted that

“All the blazes at 119 of Burke and Wills could be described as timid; they do not demand attention, the very purpose of a blaze. (Walker’s does not meet this criticism.)”

Frederick Walker had followed the Barcoo and Thomson Rivers to the Norman River (which he named after the Captain of the Victoria), found Burke’s tracks and the blazed trees at Camp 119. According to Hillan:

“Walker marked a tree FW/12 Jan/1862 and that tree is the feature of the site now and is the sole focus of tourist attention. It is generally thought to be the Burke and Wills tree.”

 

*According to an April 1880 Western Australian newspaper report, the former Murray River steamboat entrepreneur, Francis Cadell, was believed to have been

engaged in the nefarious practice of kidnapping human beings, known technically as ‘blackbirding.’

The evidence on the point, while not conclusive, is unfortunately too circumstantial not to amount to a very grave suspicion.”

The content of today’s blog is taken from Chapter 13 (Normanton to Julia Creek, Qld) of the ebook.

 

 

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Dirt Music A Long Way From Home

Broome, WA

October 13th 2020 post

‘A Long Way from Home’

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luther Fox, the central character in Tim Winton’s 2001 novel – Dirt Music – turns up in Broome, WA, in the company of a decrepit pair of grey nomads, Horrie and Bess, who’re towing a rundown caravan behind a clapped out Nissan Patrol. A holiday destination for thousands, the peninsula town built on Roebuck Bay is anything but that for Luther. Bess has incurable bowel cancer and wants to go out with a bang by experiencing the raw power of Nature – a cyclone – on a run to the wire through the Kimberley Wet. The old boilers have adopted Luther but he’s had his fill. To top it off, their tinny tape-player is assaulting him with Prokofiev and Shostakovich when what he wants is dirt music – stuff that comes out of the ground and might be played on the back porch or around a campfire.

Dirt music is the natural expression of the Fox clan. Through it they express raw human emotion which disturbs the middle class preference for respectability and good mannered behaviour – the thin veneer of civilisation that covers visceral instinct, scrubbed surface, politeness which came of the polishing of coins passed from hand to hand in middle-class commerce such as that which lined the pockets of Shover McDougall and Jim Buckridge. Dirt music – deceptively simple songs as performed by Son House, Mississippi Fred MacDowell, Sleepy John Estes, Dock Boggs and countless other unpolished bluesmen – comes closest to the animal instinct about which Bess sought to engage Luther’s interest.

Bess and Horrie are atypical caravaners, the Nissan Patrol boiling over with fan belt trouble as did the Holdens of days gone by. Typical caravaners head south in 170 horsepower vehicles with a mobile holiday home in tow, pulling in for diesel (and to enquire whether or not their fellow travellers obtained near as good a fuel economy as them) at roadhouses on the Great Northern Highway. A young gold miner dressed to the nines in the standard corporate uniform (logo – de rigueur) with whom Luther Fox spoke thought the nomads pathetic superannuated road hogs following the leader around the coastal strip. Luther Fox’s motto is ‘neither a nomad nor a caravaner be’; he has to take up residence, engage in the routines of a place.

The disgruntled mine employee was describing the clockwise retiree. Those heading south at that truckstop were the anti-clockwise variety. Bess and Horrie were out of season clockwise travellers, kindred spirits with Luther Fox but out of sync, of another time – overtaken. Horrie regularly pulls off the bitumen in order for Bess to deal with the discomfort of a dysfunctional bowel. Fox feels trapped: her discomfit and his classical music are enough to drive a man to drink. So when Horrie put the hard word on him to hang out with them once they hit Broome Luther’s in a cleft stick situation: he needs the Nissan to transport him through the black night across the Roebuck Plain but the first glimmer of town lights is the signal to flee.

The lights had come with the shopping centres and houses when Broome had been dolled-up by property ‘developers’.

Travelling Write - Broome post

‘Dirt Music’

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Crass traders had taken the place of Cable Beach hippies. Historic Chinatown had been expanded, ‘improved’, the pearl industry gentrified.

I walked through Chinatown (or ‘Japtown’ as it had been known) in 2017 and called to a Dampier Terrace pub. Somewhat out of place amongst the high-viz clientele I was struck by the degree to which the woman who pulled the beer was overdressed, even for a bar manager. Perhaps I should have noticed, sooner, that the bar staff were dressed in lingerie and exaggeratedly flouting their bums, tits and crotches in all manner of ludicrous ‘come-ons’? Burlesque, yes; but this was like being an extra in an excessively crude porn movie scene. Some of the women, those with cash tucked in their panties in the main, posed as if acting on instruction to be as silly as a wheel.

It turned out that I’d been in the Roebuck Bay Hotel where Willie Bachhuber had been taken aback by a priapic peacock in Peter Carey’s A Long Way from Home. The type of hotel Drysdale used paint, Willie thought, increasingly ill at ease under the gaze of other patrons. He walked out into an alley and was even more disturbed by the effect his approach had on the Orientals who were there. He couldn’t read the signs.

Did Carey book a room in Shibalane apartments near the Roebuck Bay Hotel? As for what Sheba Alley might have been in 1954 when Irene Bob’s forlorn navigator in the Redex trial wandered through, presumably it was where blokes went to find women like those who nowadays tuck cash in their panties?

Within an hour of the Nissan Patrol’s arrival in Broome, a cyclone from the Timor Sea touched land and the Roebuck Plain was flooded. Dirt from the Great Sandy Desert painted the town red and was swept down through the mangroves to wash over the shore.

HMS Roebuck was the name of the leaky ship in which William Dampier explored the Western Australian coast in 1699.

From  Chapter 21 (Willare to Carnarvon, WA) of the ebook.

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The Jetty

Bowen, Queensland

Moral Compass

Bowen Wharf

The Jetty

Unable to find the bakery Don Watson had mentioned when we called to Bowen in 2016, Renee and I had taken a stroll along the jetty. Signage at the entrance to the jetty informed tourists that Baz Luhrmann had shot the Darwin scenes for Australia there a decade earlier. Back in town for breakfast on July 10th 2018, we scouted possible locations and settled on Jochheim’s Pies in George Street. Not bad. My friend Gary would probably recommend it did he ever pass that way.

We walked the length of the jetty again. The fishers were still there from two years earlier

Bowen post October 5th 2020

The Jetty

but the turtle had gone.

Bowen post October 6th 2020

The jetty turtle

As had the original inhabitants. Korah Wills, butcher, hotelier and Bowen’s first mayor, had recommended that the wholesale killing of Aborigines be done without fanfare. It had to be done, he tells us because

“our own white people were crying out for room to stretch our legs … ”

Wills left a record of his various acts of depravity in ‘dispersing’ the indigenous inhabitants of Bowen. Lest we forget the manner in which we came to call Australia ‘home’.

Bowen had originally been called Port Denison – by Captain Sinclair in 1859. Its first European settlers – Thea Astley’s fictional Cornelius Laffey from It’s Raining in Mango among them – arrived aboard the Jeannie Dove in 1861, just as the citizens of the United States had gone to war with one another over the struggle as to which of the territories would become slave and which non-slave States. And when the American Civil War ended in 1865, Port Denison was renamed ‘Bowen’ in honour of Sir George Bowen, first Governor of the recently proclaimed Colony of Queensland.

As noted in the previous post, Nathaniel Buchanan headed a droving expedition from Port Denison to his and William Landsborough’s Bowen Downs Station lease on the Thomson River in October 1862.

In 1863 James Morril wandered into the Port Denison settlers’ midst shouting “Do not shoot. I am a B-b-british object!” Morril had been shipwrecked off the coast in 1846 and had been taken in by the local Aborigines.

Taking Morril’s faltering statement as his departure point, David Malouf explored questions raised by Morril’s experience to write his novel Remembering Babylon, the story of a castaway, Gemmy Fairley, who, living with the Aborigines but not initiated, remained a tribal fringe dweller and retained, in consequence, a dim sense of belonging elsewhere – a tenuous connection with Britain. It’s the pervasive theme in Patrick White’s fiction, of being suspended (uncomfortably) between Europe and the Great Southern Land, the problem of being an Australian. In addition, Malouf tips his hat to Patrick White’s A Fringe of Leaves and does so with a poetic facility mirroring D H Lawrence’s in Kangaroo – the ‘humanity at odds or at one with Nature?’ motif that White thought redeemed Lawrence’s otherwise dreadful novel.

Years later, white settlement having reached as far north as that tribe’s territory (the coastal bay the Europeans had named Port Denison) Gemmy was bailed up at a settler’s boundary – sitting on the fence – by the Beattie family’s kelpie. Pre-pubescent Lachlan Beattie took charge and Gemmy, this intermediate being, was cared for by the Europeans with whom he had first contact, the Beattie family, in that apprehensive pioneer hamlet. From their own point of view the Europeans were struggling settlers, poor folk merely “crying out for room to stretch our legs” as the mayor had characterised their predicament. As they saw it, the Aborigines were standing in the way of civilisation, primitives who must be shooed away, black creatures who hung about the waterhole to which the settlers’ livestock needed unfettered access. The new comers couldn’t see it from the point of view of the tribal inhabitants for whom this had been their territory since time out of mind. To the white newcomers those black inhabitants represented an existential threat and must be dispersed by whatever means, whatever it took.

The settlers were ready to believe (and soon enough persuaded by the usual rugged individualists) that Gemmy Fairley posed a threat, that he’d been sent to prepare the way for an avenging mob of blackfellas. It’s ever thus: the mob is putty in the hands of the single-minded types who give no quarter and often seek to rule. From their perspective the primitive is an ever-present danger – savage at best but liable to become a Svengali.

The arrival of the in-between creature highlights the precarious hold these European colonists have on civilisation: born white, had Gemmy remained so after living with blacks? His mother-tongue was English but he was no longer at home in it. What about the colonists’ children? And what of themselves? Could one cease to be white?

The settler community is split, the majority allowing fear to triumph over their oft-stated Christian values. Nothing new under the sun. Among the few who understand the true nature of the dilemma presented by the appearance of Gemmy in the settlement, the Reverend Frazer, botanist, notes in his diary that the standard response of most people is to assume the strange new land should conform to their understanding of how things are, to force the shoe to fit. And they’ll either succeed or die in the process of making it so. The Reverend believes that the newcomers ought adjust as best they can to the world in which they find themselves and in that way enhance it, that insofar as Gemmy is no longer European and yet not an indigene he points the way to the future.

Frazer prepares a report about Gemmy’s arrival in Bowen and after setting sail from the jetty delivers his findings to the Governor. Sir George fears that his visitor is a stalking horse for the legislative branch of government but, calmed by Frazer’s assurance to the contrary, loses interest – Governor Bowen’s sole objective being to succeed as midwife at the birth of the new colony, or, rather, being seen to have stamped the mark of Britain across both halves of the jurisdiction – north of the Tropic of Capricorn, and south – by giving places proper names. Being seen, that is, as bringing civilisation bequeathed to Britain by Graeco-Roman antiquity to the strange new land. And yet, like Gemmy, Babylon’s George Bowen is an outsider – a lowly Anglo-Irish cleric’s son.

George Bowen may have regarded Britain as the centre of civilisation but other European nations also lay claim, so much so that they went to war with one another ten years after the Australian slave-trade for which Bowen bore some responsibility finally ceased. Lachlan Beattie’s grandson died on the battlefield in the unspeakable carnage of that Great War. Fifty-odd years earlier, Gemmy Fairley had begged Lachlan not to shoot, that he was British. He’d been fortunate to have encountered Lachlan and Janet; they were from a civilised family – Port Denison settlers who cared.

Civilisation is a thin veneer. Too few of the town’s residents shared the Beattie outlook and Gemmy was soon the object of his fellow British subjects’ savagery – treated like an Aborigine, hunted by men of authority such as Korah Wills, men who blazed a trail for the ever-expanding British Empire. Like the indigenous tribe that had taken him in, the castaway vanished. Lachlan still cared; he wanted to know what had become of them and learned to communicate with a series of native language groups while acquiring bush skills on his way to manhood as part of an 1870s team surveying the terrain for the construction of a road – what is now the Bruce Highway – that would link the various coastal settlements.

He made enquiries at each camp but nothing much came of them until way up near Mount Elliot the smattering of Aboriginal words Gemmy had taught him a decade earlier enabled him to understand a young woman’s account of a gang of cattlemen accompanied by the Native Police having run down and killed eight or nine members of her tribal clan, the Aborigines with whom Gemmy had lived in the years between the shipwreck that rendered him a castaway and being taken in by the Beattie family. As was the custom, the survivors had parcelled up the bones of their fellow countrymen and placed those packages in tree forks. Lachlan persuaded the young woman to show him those trees. It was vague, not at all forensic, but enough for the young man, Janet Beattie’s cousin, to satisfy himself that Gemmy’s were among the bones in those haunted bundles.

And as was the colonial custom, the cold-blooded murder of Aborigines being (as Bowen’s Mayor, Korah Wills, put it) “something not to be mentioned” neither was that ‘dispersal’ reported in the newspapers. Wiping out the first inhabitants was just one of those things which

had to be done for the protection of our own hearths and Wives and families … to keep possession of the soil that was laying to waste and no good being done with it … . [Now] we have got the Country and may we for ever hold it for we want it for the good of the whole civilized world … we have risked our lives … in arresting it from the savage.

Janet understood that Lachlan knew he’d nothing but circumstantial evidence concerning Gemmy’s end, that he was merely seeking to staunch a wound. But he couldn’t; they couldn’t: Gemmy had come among them and they’d be forever conscious of the unresolved conflict he represented.

Fifty years on from surveying that road through the bush, with the armies of the civilised nations at each other’s throats on Flanders Field, the Somme, Amiens, et al, Lachlan and Janet were thrown together by the first casualty of war when the authorities accused them of colluding with the Germans. They hadn’t; but then, as now, Babylon triumphed: the powers-that-be, scared of their own shadow when seeking to identify the perceived enemy, find him under every rock.

Our Graeco-Roman heritage tells us that war is part and parcel of human nature; our Judeo-Christian moral compass points to Babylon as the enemy of truth. Remembering Babylon ends with Lachlan and Janet’s reunion in the garden of the house that blackbirding built. Lest we forget the utter bastardry that allows us to still call Australia home.

I left school fifty years ago secure in the knowledge that we’d advanced beyond pointless war, autocracy, and so on. Afterall, there’d be no point learning about all those disasters which threatened to undermine Western civilisation only to repeat the folly. An unflinching search for truth would see us through. Five minutes in the workplace remedied that unrealistic conclusion.

And what’s with the jetty being singled out as Bowen’s most significant landmark? Whilst the jetty has much to recommend it, frequent mention of the jetty serves only to meet an extraneous criterion about which we will put you in the picture should you enquire about the jetty.

 

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Nat Buchanan

Aramac, Qld.

Nat Buchanan territory

Buchanan and Landsborough almost perished near here

Nat Buchanan and William Landsborough almost perished near where Aramac now stands while exploring the region in 1859.

Bowen Downs rustlers

Aramac road sign

According to local road signage, Robert Ramsay Mackenzie had been there before Buchanan and Landsborough and named the place ‘Marathon’. Landsborough had called it ‘Aramac’ because of the initials ,’R R Mac’, Mackenzie had carved into a tree. Mackenzie, fierce advocate for the squatters, succeeded his bête noire, Arthur Macalister, as Queensland’s Premier in 1867.

Bowen Downs

Nat Buchanan’s son, Gordon, tells us in Packhorse and Waterhole that his father pioneered a stock route from Bowen (though the signage suggests it was from Nebo), Queensland, to the newly established Bowen Downs Station in October 1862. Nat Buchanan was the station manager. More a drover than manager, Buchanan relinquished his stake and departed, defeated by drought, around the time Mackenzie formed government. Buchanan’s grandson, also called Nat, took part in the first Redex trial.

Irene Bobs’ navigator in the 1954 Redex trial, Willie Bachhuber, tells us that she, the driver of their Holden in Peter Carey’s 2017 novel A Long Way from Home, went into the Betts Creek Post Office to make a phone call. It must have been an old sign because less than three months after being established in October 1884, Betts Creek was renamed Pentland. It’s fifty-odd kilometres northeast of Torrens Creek on the Flinders Highway. Bowen Downs Station is on Route 18, the Aramac-Torrens Creek Road.

On Tuesday, August 7th 2018, P G Henry left the Jericho free-camp and headed west along the Capricorn Highway (Route A4) toward Barcaldine. Approaching roadkill, he neglected to reduce speed sufficiently and might have collided with a mature wedge-tailed eagle but for the fact that it followed the street-mart crows with whom it was feasting on the carcass. Chastened, Henry slowed; five or six kilometres later he rounded a bend as a large kangaroo leisurely walked onto the road into the path of the campervan. He braked hard and swerved but fortunately maintained control. All good.

Aberfoyle Station

Taking the narrow bitumen strip that is Route 19 north from Barcaldine, Henry drove the seventy-odd kilometres to Aramac. Bowen Downs Station, on the eastern edge of the Mitchell Grass Downs, is about the same distance northwest of the town. Aberfoyle Station is due north, halfway to Torrens Creek from Aramac along Route 18.

Poor cousin to Bowen Downs, Aberfoyle Station was run by Jack Jardine and his wife Lizzie (nee Murray-Prior) at the time of the Shearers’ strikes in the 1890s. Jack’s brothers, Alexander and Frank, had committed atrocities when ‘conquering’ Cape York Peninsula in 1865 just as his father-in-law, Thomas Lodge Murray-Prior, had at Hornet Bank Station in 1856. Lizzie’s sister, Rosa, married Arthur Praed and moved to England where she became a successful writer of numerous fictions set in outback Queensland. Don Watson regularly cites Rosa Praed in The Bush and in ‘Colonial Eyes: Rosa Praed’s Queensland’ Patricia Clarke reckons she’s a significant Australian woman whose novels “represent the creation of a colonial world, unique in its way in Australian fiction, apart perhaps from the Victoria of Henry Handel Richardson.” Belinda McKay, more circumspect, acknowledges that the novels set in the vicinity of Aberfoyle station capture something of the strain put on a marriage in such a remote region where the socially isolated and culturally deprived settlers had to come to terms with the fact that they were taking the drought prone land from the first inhabitants on the one hand while fending off the demands of unionised labour on the other; nevertheless, says McKay in By the Book, Praed’s attention to the historical and botanical fact of the matter is wanting and the stories are melodramatic.

Like Thea Astley, Rosa Praed had actual physical locations in mind when creating fictional landscapes. Fictional characters, too, were modelled on people in the wider family circle. When, for instance in Lady Bridget in the Never-Never Land, Lady Bridget puts it to Colin McKeith that “The Premier said that you were the terror of the natives. He told me about a gun you have with a great many notches on the barrel of it, and he said that each notch represented a black-fellow that you had killed” she had Frank Jardine in mind.

Aramac’s main claim to fame, nowadays, is the Harry Redford Cattle Drive, the annual commemoration of Harry Readford’s theft of a thousand head of Bowen Downs cattle in 1870 – this year’s being on the sesquicentenary of the celebrated heist. Being branded, the stolen cattle couldn’t be sold in Queensland or NSW so Harry (the cattle duffer known as Captain Starlight) and his gang overlanded them down the Thomson River to the confluence with the Barcoo from where the watercourse becomes Cooper’s Creek.

The rustlers successfully piloted the mob of cattle through harsh terrain but when they ran low on supplies thirteen hundred kilometres to the southwest Harry (masquerading as Henry Collins) exchanged a white bull for the necessary provisions. The bull – a rare pedigree stud import from England – gave the game away and Harry was arraigned. The jury found him ‘Not guilty’ by virtue (goes the yarn) of his having done what Burke and Wills hadn’t.

The content of this post is derived in part from Chapter 14 (‘Drunken Camels’) Julia Creek, Qld, to Frewena, NT, of the ebook but with additional material from road signage and P G Henry’s campervan diary.

The next post, Bowen, Qld, is scheduled for October 6th, 2020.

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Route 66

Avon Downs, Northern Territory

 

On 21st January 1882, the ‘Herbert River Blocks’ on the Barkly Tableland were auctioned in Adelaide. … Thomas Guthrie, a Victorian grazier, was the successful bidder on four blocks and Avon Downs was born.”

This information comes courtesy of a Barkly Highway plaque at South Latitude 20° 1′ 27.9228” – Longitude 137° 29′ 19.5504”. The plaque goes on to say that Guthrie’s drover, Wallace Caldwell, completed “the longest sheep droving trip in Australian history” when he took 11000 sheep on a 3500 kilometre 16 month endurance trial from Northwestern Victoria in 1882 to Avon Downs in 1883.

The Herbert River was renamed the Georgina in 1890.

The Barkly Highway is a sealed roadway that runs across the Barkly Tableland. William Landsborough had named the Tableland after the Governor of Victoria while searching for Burke and Wills in 1861.

Mary Durack writes in Kings in Grass Castles that in 1876 Sydney and Alfred Prout set out to pioneer white settlement of the Barkly Tableland but were not heard from again. William Carr-Boyd (bush raconteur and newspaper columnist known as the Potjostler) went in search, says Gordon Buchanan in Packhorse and Waterhole, but was too late: they’d died of thirst.

Gordon’s father, Nathaniel, and ‘Greenhide’ Sam Croker crossed the Barkly Tableland on horseback in 1877. They were overlanders, nineteenth-century European Australians who warmed to the silence of the bush despite the existential threat, hardship (sixteen hour days in muddy bogs, for example), privations (thirst, food rationing) and downright unfairness being a drover entailed. Herding livestock across the Barkly Tableland to the Roper River and beyond to the Kimberley became Nathaniel Buchanan’s preferred way of life.

Fifty years after Buchanan had done so on horseback, the author of Hell West and Crooked, Tom Cole, hitched a ride across the Tableland in a solid-tyre truck that had been reduced to a ramshackle state by what back in 1927 was nothing but a rough track.

The rough track was upgraded to a road during World War II. Defence Road (as it was called) was the Australian Army’s supply route, the road transport corridor linking the Mt Isa railway terminus in Queensland and its counterpart at Birdum in the Northern Territory. The Camooweal-to-Tennant Creek section is now the Barkly Highway.

Tom Cole helped unload provisions for Avon Downs Station at the drop-off point on the Ranken River before its confluence with the Georgina and then left for Brunette Downs Station, 100 kilometres northeast of Frewena.

After a couple of days at Avon Downs I drove to Frewena – the site of Defence Road’s number 3 bore in early 1941. The bores had been sunk at regular intervals because of a dirth of reliable surface water on the Barkly Tableland. Number 3 bore was also the third Bulk Issue Petrol Oil Depot on the supply route – the first being located at the Mt Isa railway station in Queensland and the second at Camooweal.

Next week’s post will feature Aramac, Queensland.

 

 

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Karstens and Margys

Respect for the bush or glib tourist promotion?

There’s much to be said for initiatives to promote social cohesion but handing the job over to the Karstens and Margys to convey the message is bound to yield pap, isn’t it?

On September 12th Radio National’s Geraldine Doogue hosted a Saturday Extra discussion about the pandemic-driven 2020 upsurge in domestic tourism. She then read the following message from Kirsty Cockburn:

“I must implore you to explore one extremely concerning aspect of this Australian rush for four-wheel drives and caravans and camping. We live in the Bellinger Valley and it’s getting smashed with illegal camping. But even the legal people have no idea how to treat the bush – the impact of their vehicles compacting soils and wasting our regeneration efforts on rivers. And their ablution techniques: toilet paper and shit everywhere!
“I just returned from the Territory and it’s the same there. We need a ‘respect your backyard’ campaign before a tourism campaign to further exploit Australia’s regional areas. We can’t cope here: we have one – yes, one – ranger for our entire shire to face an onslaught of visitors.
“It’s the elephant in the room and we’re seriously sick of tourism campaigns that are glamorous but which don’t teach Australians how to treat the bush. Foreigners, especially from Europe and New Zealand, seem comparatively more respectful on most occasions.”

With respect blog

Glamorous tourism

It’s not just ill-conceived tourist campaigns, is it? What about ABC TV’s repetitive renditions of doe-eyed enthusiasts singing ‘We are One’ and (in Adelaide) the banal promo about the radio announcer who gets out of bed in the morning and buys a cup of coffee on her way to work? And now they’ve added a load of tosh about love, love, loving the ABC. Jesus wept.

There’s much to be said for initiatives to promote social cohesion but handing the job over to the Karstens and Margys to convey the message is bound to yield pap, isn’t it?

Imagine, instead, that the Kirsty Cockburns of this world had been consulted when those ABC TV promos were being considered: not only would campers be encouraged to show greater respect for the bush but they might learn a few tricks – moving up closer  to the vehicle in front at the traffic lights so that those seeking to ‘Turn left anytime with care’ might do so, for instance – that would enhance life in the city.

As for domestic tourism, the current pandemic presents the Federal Government with an opportunity to act genuinely (as against flim-flam announcements) in the public interest. That’s another story, an opinion piece for a later post that will elaborate on the issue alluded to in Chapter 5 of the ebook.

An opinion piece, this post is an aside from the main focus – Australian writing in its geographical setting – of this blog.

 

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